Hilda's Projects

Hilda from Spokane, Washington, USA BroomH45@aol.com , made these projects.

"The room divider was built to hide the back of the couch and cords to the lamps from view of the dining room.  It is framed with 2x4 (inside) with 4x4 posts on  both ends.

The top and the shelf is 1x8 solid oak.  The walls are 1/4" oak plywood.  I wrapped the posts with the oak plywood and then used a pre-made hemlock corner trim to cover the corners.  I used 31/2" colonial style baseboard on the bottom and 21/4" window facing turned upside down under the shelf.

The overall size is 113" long x 87 3/4" high x 5" deep.  I wanted to keep the openness between the dining room and the living room and I've succeeded.  The wall is not intrusive at all."

"This tv stand was built in a hurry.  My tv went out and I didn't like the stands that come with the tv's so I designed this one.  I built it with scraps I had left over from my last projects.  The body of the cabinet is made with 3/4" oak plywood.  The doors are solid hemlock and the facing is solid oak.  I made the hemlock molding around the top with with my router.  The bottom is solid oak with detail being made with the cove router bit.  I also put heavy duty casters on the bottom so I can pull it out from the wall easily.  I don't know if you can tell from the picture, but I beveled the back in order to make it deep enough for the television but not stick out too far from the wall.

The cabinet is 46" wide in the front, 36" wide in the back with a 7 inch bevel cut at 45 degree angles on both sides.  It is 33" high total (with casters).  I put a wall in the center and put one fixed shelf in each side.  I routed the doors with a beading bit on the outside edges, 1/4" cove bit on the front, inside and 3/8" rabbet bit on the back for the glass.  I made some little opaque curtains and attached them to the back of the doors with velcro to kind of hide the vcr, receiver etc."

"This is a pantry built for a small kitchen with limited shelf space.  It is 7'4" high by 4' wide by 16 3/4" deep (after doors were installed).  I used 3/4" oak plywood for the body, solid oak facing, HD melamine floor.  The shelves are 3/4" oak plywood.  The shelves are adjustable with 3 on the left (leaving room for a waste basket) and 4 on the right. The top is separated frm the bottom with a fixed shelf  with two panels in the middle to separate right from left sides.  I used a piece of tool peg board for marking and drilling the holes for the shelf supports.  The doors are solid hemlock for the door facings with 1/4" oak plywood panels.  If this looks alot like the other cabinets on your page, it's because they were made for the same house and they wanted them to match.

This thing was so big that I had to move it into the kitchen before I put the doors on.

The thing on top of the pantry is a cutting board they put up there before I took the picture. (just in case anyone wonders what it is."  LOL)

"I keep saying "I'm going to stop making BIG things, then someone comes up with something they need that is bigger than the last.  Oh-Well!!!! "

Here's a series of in-progress photos of a great looking Microwave Cart which Hilda recently made. I've numbered the shots and Hilda describes her preoject in her own words.

"The cabinet is 32" w x 35" h x 20" deep.  The body of the cabinet is made from 3/4" oak plywood. The facing is made of solid oak and the facing for the doors and the front of the drawer is 3/4" solid hemlock. The floor is Melamine HD particle board. The molding on the top is 3/4" solid oak and the base trim is hemlock.  The drawer is 3/4 oak plywood and the bottom of the drawer is 1/4" oak plywood, as are the panels in the doors."

"The adjustable shelf  on the inside is 3/4" oak plywood with a strip of hemlock I ripped from the door facing, to cover the visible plywood on the front of the shelf. I use a piece of peg-board as a template to drill holes for the shelf supports. To finish, I put on the casters. On the doors, I use the 1/4 cove router bit on the inside of the facing (also on the outside front edges of the cabinet for detailing ).  I use the 1/2 " beading bit on the outside edge of the door facing. Then I use the 3/8" rabbetting bit to in-set the panels in the doors."

And this is Hilda's completed project with a wine rack on it, which she made a few years ago.

This is a small pool house she made. Hilda says, "the pool house is now a storage room for patio furniture."

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"This is a hutch-like cabinet made for a particular space. I made the cabinet case out of 3/4" plywood. The facing is solid oak. The door frames are made with solid hemlock.  The panels for the doors are 1/4" oak plywood. This cabinet was the first one I've built with glass doors. The top shelves are 3/8" tempered glass. I used a peg-board strip as a template to drill holes in the sides of the cabinet to make the shelves adjustable. This cabinet is 79"h x34"w x 24"d.

I like working with oak because of the wood grain and the fact that it is a hard-wood that takes a lot of dings without hurting it. I use hemlock for the door facings because it is quite a bit softer than oak and doesn't eat up my router bits when I detail the edges. Also because of the woodgrain and it takes the stain just like the oak. I use a rubbing stain and then poly urethane. I put two coats of urethane on the entire cabinet (inside and out), then, for the tops and the doors I sand it down lightly and add a third coat. I have put five coats on the tops of some of the cabinets (depending on who I'm building it for and their propensity to set things on top of the cabinet.)"

"The other picture is a mini entertainment center.  You can see I build things for certain spaces.  I built it with the same materials and style as the hutch because I made them for the same people.  On this project (As with most that I do) I use cabinet screws and glue and clamps, clamps and more clamps!!! This cabinet has one fixed shelf on each and two adjustable shelves in the center. For the floor I used melamine particle board."

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